Dr. JEB Burchenal Summits Mt. Denali 20,310 ft

Dr. JEB Burchenal is one of our interventional cardiologists who to say the least, loves exercise and the outdoors. He is a avid endurance runner and has competed in several ultramarathons, 50k and 100 miles races. Not all 100 miles races are alike as he competed in the Leadville 100 and finishing it in 29 hours. If that’s not enough of a challenge Jeb has run the Hardrock 100 where it’s a 100-mile run with 33,050 feet of climb and 33,050 feet of descent for a total elevation change of 66,100 feet with an average elevation of 11,186 feet – low point 7,680 feet (Ouray) and high point 14,048 feet (Handies Peak). His time was 42 hours.

In June 2016 Dr. Burchenal headed off to Alaska to climb the highest mountain in North America, Mt Denali at an elevation of 20,310 ft. Below you can follow the blog of the American Alpine Institute and relive some of his journey. Congratulations Dr. Burchenal!

June 6, 2016

Guides:
Paul Ivaska
Jim Mediatore
Angela Henderson

Climbers:

Gerard Hackett
Jeb Burchenal
Michael Henry
Timo Smuts
Cyprian Z
John Carswell
Hideyasu Nishi

AAI guide Angela Henderson called in earlier today with the first dispatch for Team 6.

Team 6 drove into Talkeetna earlier today, hoping to get a chance to fly onto the mountain today, though the weather looked uncertain throughout the day. Unfortunately a weather window did not open up, so the team is in Talkeetna for the evening and hopeful of flying on the mountain tomorrow.

We’re looking forward to hearing from Team 6 from the mountain, soon!

(Image courtesy of  ALASKA MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL)

June 7, 20161-Denali-West-Buttress-Route

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called in this evening to update us on the progression of Team 6. After a slight weather delay yesterday, Team 6 flew onto the mountain this morning!

They spent the day at Base Camp on Denali, going through gear and prepping for their move up the Kahiltna Glacier to Camp 1 (7,800 ft) early tomorrow morning. We’re looking forward to hearing more from Team 6 tomorrow!

June 8, 2016

AAI guide Angela Henderson called in this evening. Team 6 successfully arrived at Camp 1 (7,800 ft) earlier today!

The team move really well and fast and had excellent snow conditions. They are resting up for the evening and looking forward to making a cache further up the mountain tomorrow.

June 10, 2016

Paul called in with a brief dispatch today as they were having trouble getting a good connection.  He said they were all at camp one and trying to get organized to continue their climbing and acclimatization.  They’ve had light winds and a little bit of snow, but pleasant overall and the team is excited about the climb ahead of them.

June 13, 2016

AAI guide Angela Henderson called in earlier to report that Team 6 has successfully made it to Camp 2 (around 10,000 ft). The team is making excellent progress and making a fast pace up the mountain.

Earlier today Team 6 made their cache near Windy Corner (about 13,700 ft). All is looking well for Team 6 to make their approach to Camp 3 (14,300 ft) hopefully tomorrow (Tuesday, 6/14/16).

June 15, 2016

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called this evening to report on Team 6. As anticipated, Team 6 arrived at Camp 3 (14,300 ft) yesterday (Tuesday), June 14th. Today they back-carried to pick-up their cache from Windy Corner (13,450 ft).

Tomorrow (Thursday) the team plans to practice using the fixed lines in preparation for making their next cache on the 16,000 ft ridge above the fixed lines. Everyone is doing really well and they are currently having great weather – last night was a bit windy, with gusts up to 60 mph high on the mountain and around 40 mph at Camp 3.

We are hoping the weather continues so Team 6 (and the other teams on Denali) can continue their progress up the mountain. We are looking forward to hearing from Team 6 again soon!

June 16, 2016

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called this evening from Camp 3. Team 6 went over the fixed lines today and checked out the Edge of the World.

Their plan for tomorrow (Friday) is to make a cache above the fixed lines at 16,000 ft then return to Camp 3 and wait for a weather window to allow them to move up to High Camp and summit. There is en expected weather system moving in for the weekend but we’re hoping it doesn’t last long.

Everyone is doing really well and we’re looking forward to hearing from Team 6 again soon.

June 17, 2016

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called in this evening from up at Camp 3. Team 6 had an exciting day putting in their cache above the fixed lines before the storm hit. This storm is expected to last through the weekend. Once there is a weather window, Team 6 will attempt to move up to High Camp. But for now, they are waiting out the weather at Camp 3.

June 19, 2016

AAI guide Angela Henderson called this evening to let us know that all is well and Team 6 is still waiting out this storm at Camp 3.

We are hoping to hear news of good weather arriving so both remaining AAI Denali teams can move up the mountain, soon! And from all of us at AAI, Happy Father’s Day to all the Dads out there!

June 20, 2016DSC00928

AAI Jim called to let us know the ascended the fixed lines up to High Camp.  They enjoyed the view over a beautiful sea of clouds. They plan a summit attempt on Wednesday.

June 22, 2016

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called this afternoon. Team 6 had moved up to High Camp (17,300 ft) on Monday and were hoping to summit today.

Unfortunately the weather had changed and it was a bit windy (30-50 mph winds at the summit), so the team spent their time building snow walls and fortifying camp. The forecast has the winds dying down and the weather is looking good for a summit attempt hopefully on Thursday (6/23/16).

Everyone on the team is doing well and they are all anxious about their summit attempt tomorrow, keeping fingers crossed.

Best of luck to Team 6 tomorrow, we’re all looking forward to hearing from them soon!

June 24, 2016JEB Denali summit text

Team 6 has made it to the summit on Thursday the 23rd at 8 pm and are currently back at High Camp. Everyone got up and back down to high camp safely. We are getting ready to head down to 14 camp then then Base camp. Everyone is doing well!

June 27, 2016

AAI lead guide Paul Ivaska called us earlier today to let everyone know Team 6 has made their way back down to Base Camp. They were still waiting for flyable weather when they called at 10:30 am Alaska time, before K2 Aviation could come pick them up and fly everyone off the mountain. We are hoping to hear of Team 6 safely arriving back in Talkeetna, if they have not already arrived.